Immerse yourself in the cofrade atmosphere
Culture, Tapas, and Devotion in Seville
MANUEL
Hi! I’m Manuel, a passionate local from Triana, deeply immersed in Sevilla’s cofrade culture. I’ve been an active member of the Brotherhood of El Gran Poder for years, intimately familiar with the secrets of our Semana Santa traditions. My best recommendations for 3-day in Sevilla to discover iconic Semana Santa spots and share my favorite local bars and restaurants where cofrades savor authentic Sevillian delights. Let’s make your trip unforgettable!
To start, there’s nothing better than a stroll to get to know La Macarena church and visit its brotherhood museum to see its most relevant pieces and learn about their history. In the Macarena arch area, you’ll find some bars decorated with Semana Santa images and terraces for coffee, a beer, or a tapa (like Bar Esperanza or Bar Rosa de San Gil that smells like incense).
For lunch, you can’t miss Bodeguita Romero & Mejias ,a must-visit for those of us who enjoy the Semana Santa spirit any time of the year. If you’re looking for a more immersive experience, one option I recommend for dining today or any other day is to try SAZÓN The Folk Cook, SAZON is the world’s first platform to provide Spanish food homely prepared by locals at their own houses, where you would taste it in complete privacy.
In the afternoon, we can continue in the Alameda area, visit the basilica of El Gran Poder, and the Parish of San Lorenzo Mártir to admire the images of the Dulce Nombre brotherhood.
For dinner, a typical place to try the local cuisine is La bodega San Lorenzo a place with good tapas and a nice atmosphere. Another option is Bar Casa Ricardo, a restaurant with a wide variety of tapas and dishes very close to El Gran Poder.
If you feel like having a drink at night, you have the vibrant Alameda area nearby, full of terraces and a great atmosphere. You can have a drink on the terrace of Pub Ritual or in café Central if you prefer something more bohemian and neighborhood-like.
This morning, head to the Parish of Santa María Magdalena. In this area, you can have churros with chocolate or a famous mollete with ham (a very typical Andalusian breakfast) at bar Doña Carmen.
Since you’re in the center, other lesser-known but worth-visiting parishes in the Metropol Parasol area are San Pedro Apóstol, Santa Catalina, or the church of El Buen Suceso. If you want to have a snack in the area with a completely Semana Santa atmosphere, don’t miss going to Los Claveles or El Rinconcillo.
To continue the afternoon, take a walk through the Santa Cruz neighborhood, it undoubtedly has a special atmosphere that can’t be described. Its narrow streets and street flamenco make it a place with a lot of charm. Walk through its narrow streets of the Jewish quarter and its orange tree patios like Plaza de doña Elvira or la calle Verde , the narrowest street in Sevilla 🙂
Nearby, I recommend visiting the Hospital de los Venerables which houses a library and works by Velázquez. Another option, if it’s from Monday to Thursday (it closes from Friday to Sunday), is the beautiful Church of Santa María la Blanca. And for a late afternoon outing, go up to the rooftop of the Hotel EME Catedral, its views of Sevilla are on another level.
Since you’re in the area of the cathedral, don’t miss Plaza de el Salvador and its church, the hidden plaza del Cabildo, for dinner time, you have Bar Santa Cruz ”Las Columnas”. If you fancy something more chic and quiet, not far away you have the restaurant Lobo López, one of my favorites.
Today is a great day for a stroll to the puente de Triana and cross over to visit the Capilla de los Marineros. There’s also a chapel right on the bridge (next to the entrance to the San Jorge Castle and the Triana Market) where you can stop and take some great photos. If you feel like having breakfast in the area, you can go to La Baronesa.
And don’t forget to visit the Basílica del Stmo. Cristo de la Expiración to admire the images of the famous El Cachorro brotherhood.
If you want to have some tapas you can go to Akela, a typical bar where people gather to have beers and some tapas at noon. An option with a terrace and tables is bar bistec right in the middle of Plazuela Santa Ana.
If you want an indoor option, in the Triana Market, you can take the opportunity to stop at any of the stalls to try paella or even sushi. You should go even if it’s just for a stroll.
To relax after eating, if you feel like having some gin and tonics, there’s a stall in the market with all kinds of gins to taste called Donde Juan Carlos (stall 37). If you fancy a drink on a terrace, you have the terrace of the Zenit hotel. And if you fancy something sweet after eating, ice cream at María Limones Triana.
Enjoy!
Note: Liiffe recommend you book restaurants and events in advance to ensure availability, as well as check schedules, as they vary depending on the season.
INTEREST PLACES
Basílica de la Macarena
This church houses one of the most revered images in Seville, where you can access to the Virgin’s Chamber on Saturdays and Sundays. You can enhance your visit by going to the back of the church, where you’ll find the museum of the Brotherhood of La Macarena, to learn about their most significant pieces and their history. You can purchase the museum ticket at the same location for €5 for adults and €3 for seniors and children, an additional euro with an audio guide.
Bar Esperanza
Café with a terrace right in the Arch of Macarena, ideal for breakfasts and tapas, with a Semana Santa atmosphere.
Bar Rosa de San Gil
It’s a small and cozy corner decorated with Semana Santa posters and objects that give it a unique touch. The tapas, served on white paper, are delicious. Don’t miss the classic potato salad with carrots and tuna, or the oxtail. It’s closed on Sunday afternoons and Mondays.
Bodeguita Romero & Mejías
It’s a small and cozy corner decorated with Semana Santa posters and objects that give it a unique touch. The tapas, served on white paper, are delicious. Don’t miss the classic potato salad with carrots and tuna, or the oxtail. It’s closed on Sunday afternoons and Mondays.
SAZÓN The Folk Cook
Enjoy a genuine experience not available anywhere else: eating at our hosts’ homes. Popular Spanish dishes prepared by locals. Traditional food that they will serve you right in their house dining rooms. This way, apart from delighting you with an exquisite full menu (including drinks), they will make you discover how they live and eat at home.
Iglesia gran poder
A church with history, born from the ancient devotion of the people of Seville towards the image of the Lord. You can go through the side to reach the altar and touch the cross. Opening Hours: Monday to Thursday: 08:00 AM – 01:30 PM and 05:30 PM – 09:00 PM. Friday: 07:30 AM – 10:00 PM. Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays: 09:00 AM – 02:00 PM and 05:30 PM – 09:00 PM.
Parroquia San Lorenzo Mártir
Here you can admire the images of the Brotherhood of the Sweet Name. Opening Hours: Tuesday to Friday: 10:00 AM – 12:00 PM / 7:00 PM – 8:45 PM Saturday: 10:00 AM – 12:00 PM / 6:00 PM – 8:00 PM Sunday: 11:00 AM – 1:45 PM Monday: 7:00 PM – 8:45 PM
Bodega San Lorenzo
A classic place for tapas with an old-world charm. I recommend trying the Russian salad, some croquettes, and smoked sardines.
Casa Ricardo
A venue close to the Gran Poder Church, with a great atmosphere and one of the few with a lot of history. They offer excellent homemade food. Personally, I recommend the Camembert cheese, which is delicious, and the codfish “pavías”. Not to mention the croquettes, which are an absolute delight.
Pub ritual
An ideal place for having drinks located right in the middle of Alameda, a lively area known for its entertainment and terraces
café central
Iconic bar from the 80s, one of the oldest in Alameda, with a lovely terrace to enjoy a coffee or a refreshment.
Parroquia de Santa María Magdalena
Church with numerous frescoes for art and painting enthusiasts, where you can admire, among others, the images of the Brotherhood of Quinta Angustia.
Opening hours:
- Monday and Friday: 7:45 AM to 11 AM
- Tuesday to Thursday: 7:45 AM to 1:30 PM
- Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays: 8:45 AM to 2 PM
Bar doña Carmen
iglesia san pedro apóstol
Very restricted hours, 3-4 hours in the morning and only 1-2 hours in the afternoon, San Pedro Brotherhood
Opening Hours: Monday to Thursday 8:30 AM – 12:30 PM / 7:00 PM – 8:30 PM Friday 8:30 AM – 11:30 AM / 7:00 PM – 9:00 PM Saturday 8:30 AM – 12:30 PM / 7:30 PM – 8:45 PM Sunday 9:30 AM – 2:00 PM / 7:30 PM – 8:30 PM
iglesia de santa catalina
Brotherhood of the Holy Christ of Exaltation and Our Lady of Tears.
Open every day from 10:00 to 13:00 and from 18:00 to 22:00
iglesia del buen suceso
Opening hours:
Monday to Friday: 9:30 AM – 10:45 AM / 7:30 PM – 9:00 PM
Saturday: 9:30 AM – 10:45 AM / 7:30 PM – 9:15 PM
Sunday: 11:00 AM – 1:30 PM / 7:30 PM – 9:15 PM
los claveles
Bar decorated with images and photos of Holy Week, terrace, tapas, and “montaditos” in a completely cofrade and Sevillian atmosphere with very friendly service. I recommend trying the spinach with chickpeas (espinacas con garbanzos), Sanlúcar-style fish, “chirlas” (a type of clam), and sirloin (solomillo).
el rinconcillo
This restaurant, with nearly 400 years of history, is considered the oldest in Seville and is full of charm. The atmosphere, especially on the ground floor, is exceptional. They offer a wide variety of dishes, and personally, I always trust the waiter’s recommendations when choosing.
Plaza de doña Elvira (Barrio STA.CRUZ)
A place often frequented by the city’s numerous visitors, its charm lies in its pedestrian character, surprising curved entrances, and a central area with gardens, benches, a fountain, and orange trees. Additionally, it is surrounded by buildings with authentic Sevillian style, where you can find restaurants, terraces, and souvenir and craft shops.
calle verde (barrio Sta. Cruz)
One of the most recognized streets in Seville, thanks to its simple and enigmatic color provided by nature. What makes it special within the Jewish quarter is its narrowness, traditional architecture, and abundant vegetation that provides shade for pedestrians. You can catch a glimpse of the secret courtyard of Calle Verde (only visible from the window).
Hospital de los venerables (Barrio STA.CRUZ)
An old institution from the 17th century that provided refuge to priests in need after the plague. This cultural treasure houses the Velázquez Center, showcasing works by the Sevillian painter and other local masters. A hidden gem in Seville that unveils its rich history and art
Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca
Known as the “temple of the three religions” because it was a mosque in the 10th century, a synagogue in the 12th century, and a Christian temple at the end of the 15th century after the expulsion of the Jews. It is the headquarters of the Brotherhood of the Rosary of Our Lady of the Snows, which is why it is also known as the Church of Santa María de las Nieves. Opening Hours: Monday to Thursday 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM / 6:00 PM – 8:00 PM Closed on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.
Hotel EME Catedral
An elegant 5-star hotel that seamlessly blends modernity with history in a 16th-century Andalusian building. Located in the heart of the Santa Cruz neighborhood, it boasts a cutting-edge terrace offering exceptional views of the Giralda and the Cathedral of Seville.
Plaza de el salvador
A charming square, one of the liveliest in Seville, located in the city center and surrounded by the El Salvador church and bars where you can grab a drink.
Plaza del cabildo
A wonderful hidden gem behind the Giralda, highly recommended for capturing your special moments, where the arches of the building surrounding the square take center stage. Additionally, in this same location, you can find antique shops and relics (including treats from convents).
Las columnas
A small but very cozy place near the cathedral. It’s always crowded thanks to its wide variety of high-quality dishes. Personally, I recommend trying the “montaditos” with shredded meat (pringá), tuna salad, prawns, etc… Everything is really good.
lobo lopez
A charming corner with a plaster sculpture on one of its walls that gives it a special touch. When visiting this place, you will surely be left with the desire to discover all that it has to offer. Very good value for money.
Las Teresas
A traditional tapas bar you shouldn’t miss. I recommend making a reservation in advance and trying the daily stew along with a good tapa of iberican ham.
Puente de triana
Historic iron bridge with 3 arches, built in 1852, connecting the Triana neighborhood with the city center.
Capilla de los marineros
One of my favorite places, I recommend you to enter and admire the beauty of its design and decoration. Where one of the most venerated virgins of Seville is located. Impressive entrance and to come face to face with the Esperanza de Triana presiding over the main altar of this small chapel. Opening times: Every day from 10:00 to 13:30 and 18:00 to 21:00
la baronesa
A very pleasant place to spend quality time with friends. The coffee is excellent. They offer a variety of plant-based beverages and some very tasty cakes and Arabic pastries.
Basílica Stmo. Cristo de la Expiración
Immerse yourself in the devotion of this Basilica, located in the Triana neighborhood. Its history is intertwined with the original chapel of the Patronage from the 17th century. The basilica showcases the baroque altarpiece of the Virgin of the Patronage and the Christ of the Expiration. This 16th-century sculpture embodies the essence of Sevillian religious tradition.
Akela
A very typical Spanish tapas bar, it offers a variety of options on its menu. Personally, I recommend trying the sausages or the chicken croquettes – they’re unique.
bar bistec
An authentic place since 1932, it continues to be a local favorite. With a sunny terrace located in Santa Ana Square, it’s a special spot to enjoy a diverse menu. You can reserve your table from 8 to 9, after which it’s first-come, first-served.
Mercado de Triana
Take the opportunity to stop at any of the stands to try the paella, fried fish, or iberian ham: for paellas at stands 25-26 visit Arrocería Criaito, visit the José Luis Romero ham shop at stands 57-59, or after eating, you can have some gin and tonics at Donde Juan Carlos (stand 37) which has a great variety.
Hotel zenit
heladeria maria limones triana
When I visit the area, I always make a stop at this place to enjoy their delicious pistachio ice cream on their cozy terrace.
HOW TO MOVE AROUND
The historic center of Sevilla is very walkable and it’s the best way to explore its narrow and picturesque streets. Many of the tourist spots are close to each other. The entire area around the cathedral is pedestrian-only, and you can only use the tram.
Sevilla is a very bike-friendly city with an extensive network of bike lanes. You can rent a bike from various local shops or use the public bike rental system called Sevici
The most used motosharing apps in Seville are Yego and Acciona
If you prefer to get around on an electric scooter, you have the Lime app.
Sevilla has a system of urban buses that reach almost every corner of the city. It’s an economical and useful option for reaching places that are farther from the center. Ticket price is 1´40 euros.
Taxis are available throughout the city and are a comfortable way to get around, especially if you have luggage or are tired. There are also Vehicle for Hire (VTC) services like Uber and Cabify.
If you want to explore areas beyond central Sevilla, consider renting a car. Keep in mind that the historic center can be tricky for driving and parking.
Always remember to check schedules and routes, especially if there are events or festivities that may affect the transportation service. Enjoy your stay in Sevilla!
You can take a boat ride on the Guadalquivir River, which will give you a unique perspective of the city from the water. You can find more information about prices and ship boarding areas in https://crucerosensevilla.com/
If you want to visit areas further from the city, the Cercanías train is a good option. For example, you can use it to reach nearby towns like Dos Hermanas or Utrera.
The tram in Sevilla connects some areas of the city center and the metro is a fast and efficient way to get around certain parts of the city, including the metropolitan area. There is only one metro line. Single ticket price is 1,40€ , you can validate and pay for your trip directly with your bank card, either credit or debit, and in physical format or from your mobile phone, without the need to buy or recharge a transport ticket at the vending machines.
Transport Cards: If you plan to use public transport regularly, consider getting a rechargeable public transport card. They offer discounts on individual tickets:
- Tarjeta Multiviaje (Multi-trip Card): It is valid for an unlimited number of trips and can be recharged at various points in the city and means of transport. The price without transfers is €0.69 and with transfers is €0.76. Before purchasing the card, a deposit of €1.50 must be paid, which is refunded upon return.
- Tourist Card 1 or 3 days: The tourist card allows unlimited travel for the selected number of days and can be purchased at the Prado San Sebastián, Plaza Ponce de León, and Avda. Andalucía, 11 service points. The price of the 1-day card is €5, and the 3-day card is priced at €10. It is possible to recharge it directly on the TUSSAM website. When purchasing this card, a deposit of €1.50 must also be paid.
Always remember to check schedules and routes, especially if there are events or festivities that may affect the transportation service. Enjoy your stay in Sevilla!
